Celeri-rave en remoulade is a classic French bistro salad that features celery root (celeriac) in a mustardy, mayonnaise-based sauce. Celery root is an under-appreciated vegetable in this country, which may in large part be due to its homely appearance. That's a shame, because the aromatic root, which tastes like a cross between parsley and celery, is as versatile as the potato and much more intriguing, knobbly skin and convoluted shape notwithstanding.

For this salad, use a mandoline or handheld vegetable slicer to cut the celery root into thin matchsticks, or use the coarse grating disk of a food processor to shred the vegetable. Celeri en remoulade tastes best if you make it a few hours in advance of serving so that the celery root can marinate and tenderize in the dressing. For a change of pace and an American twist, substitute shredded apple and carrots for half of the celery root.

Cut off the top of the celery root, and discard the greens, if any. Wash and peel the root, trimming away all the brown skin. Cut into thin matchsticks with a mandoline, or coarsely grate with the shredding disk of a food processor. Once you've grated or julienned the vegetable, place it in a large bowl and sprinkle with the salt and lemon juice to avoid discoloration. Toss to coat and let the mixture rest at room temperature for 45 minutes. Rinse, drain, and dry the celery root before continuing with the salad.

Place the mayonnaise, mustard, and vinegar in a small bowl and whisk to combine. Return the celery root to a large bowl and add about three-quarters of the mayonnaise mixture. Stir to moisten and add more sauce as needed. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate the salad for at least 3 hours or up to 2 days before serving.

To serve, transfer to a shallow bowl and sprinkle with the minced parsley. Serve cold or at room temperature.

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