Peaches

Summertime — and the peaches are juicy! With every luscious bite, the fragrant flesh oozes warm, sweet juices that run down your sleeve. We wait all year for the advent of August, because there’s nothing more defining than a perfectly ripe peach for a true taste of summer.

Peaches are part of the family known as stone fruits, referring to the ‘stone’ or pit found in the center of each fruit. Native to China, cultivation began as early as 2000 BC. Peaches spread to Europe via Persia and cultivation began along the eastern coast of America in the late 16 th century. In general, peaches fall into one of two classifications — freestones, which have soft flesh that separates easily from the stone, or clingstones, where the firm-textured flesh adheres stubbornly to the pit. In the market, peaches are rarely labeled as to category, but most will be freestone; clingstones are used for commercial canning and rarely are sold fresh for eating out of hand.

Peaches have been propagated for centuries, so there are now hundreds of varieties, all varying in color, flavor, shape and texture. Commercial orchards generally grow a number of varieties so that each matures at a different time. Peaches have a very short harvest window — 7 to 10 days — which is why you see so many different varieties for sale over the course of the summer. Peaches are available in most parts of the U.S. from May through October, but their peak season is July and August.

The sweetness of peaches varies considerably depending on the variety. In general, yellow peaches have a higher acid content, which gives them a hint of tartness. White peaches, on the other hand, have very low acid and taste extraordinarily sweet. Likewise, donut or Saturn peaches — a relative newcomer in American markets characterized by their small size and squashed or flattened shape — are also very sweet and low in acid.

When choosing peaches, let your nose be your guide. Peaches only ripen on the tree, so if they’re picked prematurely, they’'ll never develop a proper flavor and sweetness. Mature peaches smell like, well, peaches, when sniffed at the stem end. If there is no sweet, fragrant aroma, chances are the peach will not be memorable. Look for fruit with smooth, unbruised skin, with no hint of green tints. If a peach is bruised or has soft spots, it will go bad very quickly, and green areas indicate the fruit was picked too early. If your peaches are underripe, place them in a paper bag with an apple, and punch a few air holes in the bag. Leave the peaches at room temperature for a few days. Peaches are ripe when they give slightly to gentle pressure. White flesh peaches, however, are an exception to this rule: they are at their peak of flavor and texture when still a bit firm.

Stone fruit, alas, has a very short shelf life, so once ripe, should be eaten right away or stored in the refrigerator in a paper bag. Peaches have the best flavor at room temperature, so let them warm up if they have been chilled. Whether you eat peaches while standing over the sink or use them to concoct delectable drinks and desserts, don’t waste any time! Summer is evanescent, like the fruit itself, and this glorious season and its bounty will be gone before you know it.