Oranges

Like it or not, 'tis the season for citrus. Oranges are a staple fruit the year-round, but their prime season coincides with the colder months when their sweet juiciness is as welcome as a ray of sunshine. Because of their ready availability, we tend to take the orange a bit for granted, but these fruits are prized in winter when luscious, sun-ripened stone fruit is but a distant memory. Although Americans consume most of their oranges in the form of juice, the whole fruit offers endless opportunities for creativity in the kitchen.

Most oranges in this country come from California, Arizona and Florida. Although the same varieties can be grown in each state, the end product differs in color, texture and juiciness. California and Arizona oranges are ideal for eating because they have thick, easy-to-peel skins. The thicker skins are thought to be a protection against the dry climate of the West. They are often bright orange in color and have less juice than their thin-skinned Florida counterparts. 90 % of Florida's orange crop goes into juice production.

The wild ancestors of the orange are believed to come from Southeast Asia. There are three basic classifications: sweet oranges, loose-skinned oranges, and bitter (or sour) oranges. The bitter orange is known to have grown in Sicily by the 11th century, and the sweet orange arrived in the western hemisphere some 500 years later. Christopher Columbus brought orange seeds and seedlings with him to the New World, where they thrived in the semi-tropical climate of St. Augustine (now Florida).

Among the sweet oranges, the most popular eating variety is the Navel, which originated in Brazil. It is distinguished by its blossom end where a tiny embryonic fruit lies imbedded, resembling the protuberance of a navel. Navels are large in size, with thick, pebbly skins. They are seedless, and peel and segment fairly easily. Navels generally are not used for juicing, however, because their juice tends to turn bitter quickly.

Other commonly encountered sweet oranges include Valencias, blood oranges and Cara Caras. Valencias are ideal for juicing because their skins are thin and smooth and the flesh is heavy with tangy juice. They are also excellent for eating, although not as easy to peel as Navels.

Blood oranges were developed in Sicily in the 17th century. They have thin, red-flushed skins and brilliant flesh ranging in color from golden to ruby red. Although they tend to be small in size, they are very juicy, with a hint of raspberry in their flavor. Blood oranges are the best choice for sorbets or desserts where color is important. Several varieties grow in this country and in Spain, as well. The season lasts from late November through April.

Cara Caras look like Navel oranges in size and skin color, but the flesh inside is pink to red in hue. They are wonderful for eating or juicing and have a very sweet taste with hints of sweet grapefruit. The season is short ??? generally December through February ??? so look for them in specialty and farmers' markets.

Loose-skinned oranges are so-called because their skins slip effortlessly from the flesh and segments divide easily. They tend to have sweet, perfumed flesh and some varieties contain a large number of seeds. All members of the mandarin family of oranges fall into this category, including tangerines. Other mandarin varieties that can be found seasonally in the United States are Clementines, Dancys, minneolas and satsumas, all of which are prized for their tangy-sweet flavor.

In this country it is not common to encounter bitter oranges such as Sevilles or Bigardes. They have a very short season and are only available in January in the northern hemisphere. Sevilles are the most well-known variety of bitter oranges, and hail from Spain. They are not meant for eating as their flesh is tart and acidic. Rather, they are used in cooking and are prized for their peels, whose essential oils are extracted to flavor liqueurs such as Grand Marnier and Cointreau. Sevilles are also commonly used for marmalades, and the blossoms from the trees are distilled to make aromatic orange flower water. Although they have not been popularized as yet in the United States, bitter oranges are an indispensable ingredient in Spanish and Latin American cuisines.

When choosing oranges in the market, look for those that are firm to the touch and feel heavy for their size, which indicates they are juicy. Avoid fruit that has soft, spongy spots or any signs of mold. Mandarin family oranges have loose-fitting skins, so they will feel soft compared to sweet oranges. Choose mandarins that are heavy, otherwise the flesh may be dry.

Color is not necessarily an indicator of ripeness or quality. Oranges are always picked when they are ripe, but Florida oranges (with the exception of organic fruit) are often dyed with food color. This is not true of oranges produced in California or Arizona, where state laws prohibit adding color to citrus fruits. Also, fully ripe oranges can sometimes turn green, especially Valencias. "Regreening" is a natural process that can occur if there is ripe fruit on a tree at the same time the tree is producing blossoms.?? The tree produces chlorophyll to feed its blossoms, and the mature fruit also receives some of this chlorophyll, which contributes a green tint to the skin. Oranges that have "regreened" tend to be extra sweet because they were not picked early and are tree-ripened.

If you are looking for juice oranges, thin-skinned specimens are juicier than thick-skinned varieties. Store oranges at cool room temperature or in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. If you have organic oranges or those that have not been artificially dyed, grate the colored part of the peel (called the zest) with the fine side of a grater, and freeze it for future use. Be careful not to grate into the white membrane that lies beneath the peel because it is very bitter. Zesting citrus is easiest to do before you cut into the fruit. The zest of citrus is intensely flavorful. Add it to dressings, sauces, baked goods and savory dishes to boost the orange flavor of your recipe.

Oranges are an excellent source of vitamin C and fiber when eaten fresh. Once an orange is cut or juiced, however, the vitamin C content quickly begins to diminish. After 24 hours in the refrigerator, 20% of the vitamin C in fresh-squeezed juice can be lost.?? Commercially produced orange juices have relatively stable vitamin C levels, and retain 90% of it after a week of refrigeration, according to the USDA. Oranges also provide generous amounts of the B vitamin folate as well as potassium.

Oranges have long played a starring role in many cuisines of the world, prized not only for their juice and flesh, but also for the highly scented peel that contains aromatic oils. They can be used in an infinite variety of desserts, have a natural affinity with tomato, and add subtle undertones to savory dishes with chicken, duck, game, and fish. Jazz up winter salads, squeeze fresh juice to keep the winter flu season at bay, or simply peel and eat them out of hand. Oranges are the tastiest fruit of this season, so seek out some of the exotic varieties available in January and February and rediscover the virtues of this versatile, healthy and delicious fruit.??