Chard

No doubt you’ve seen bunches of chard in the market, deep green crinkled leaves bundled together, stuck in the case with the kales, mustard greens, and other mysterious leafy winter vegetables. Many Americans are unfamiliar with chard, which is one of the most nutritious and versatile vegetables, highly prized in Europe but little-known and under-appreciated in the US. Chard — often called Swiss chard, spinach beet or leaf beet — is a member of the beet family. Unlike other beets, chard is grown for its leaves and stems, not its root. Native to southern Europe, chard is believed to have developed from the wild beet more than 2,000 years ago. Literary references trace it back to the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, and Aristotle referred to red-stemmed chard in his writings in 350 BC.

Chard is a staple of Mediterranean cuisines. In this region, chard stems (also called stalks or ribs) are considered the best part of the vegetable, and the leaves are often thrown out. The opposite is true in the United States, where the leaves are usually preferred to the ribs, which are often discarded. This is a shame, because chard is really two vegetables in one: both the leaves and the stems are completely edible and can be used separately to create entirely different dishes.

Chard is one of the most versatile vegetables you’ll encounter. Young leaves can be cut into a thin chiffonade and added raw to salads, contributing color, texture, and an earthy nuance of flavor. In some parts of the world, chard is a substitute for spinach. Although not related botanically, chard leaves do resemble spinach and can be used in any spinach recipe, adding a slightly more robust taste and texture to the dish. Chard leaves also can be steamed, sautéed, braised, blanched and used as wrappers for meat or grain stuffings, or to encase fish fillets.

As a general rule, chard stalks are wider than 1 inch are best cooked separately from the leaves. Alternately, you can cook the stems until they’re almost tender before adding the leaves, to avoid overcooking the greens. Stalks can be sliced and added to stir-fries, pastas, stuffings, and soups. In Mediterranean cuisine, the stems are often braised in stock, or sautéed with olive oil and garlic. They’re also widely used in stews, gratins, tians, tarts, and tortas.

There are several varieties of chard. Swiss chard, confusingly, is not a specific varietal; apparently the word "Swiss" was appended to chard in 19th Century seed catalogs to differentiate chard from cardoons, whose stems look similar. The most widely available commercial variety of chard is called Fordhook Giant. It’s distinguished by thick white stalks and large, crinkled green leaves. Ruby chard is popular for its vivid crimson-colored stalks and leaf veins, which make a striking contrast to the dark green leaves. Ruby chard is considered a thin-stemmed variety; its stalks are tender and juicy, with a mild beet-like flavor.

Argentata chard has broad silvery-white ribs and deep green, crinkled leaves. It’s beloved by Italians and boasts a mild, sweet flavor. Rainbow chard, sometimes called Bright Lights, is the most ornamental variety. Its stems form a multicolor bouquet of pink, red, magenta, purple, yellow, gold, and orange. Both its slightly ruffled green leaves and brightly hued stalks are tender and sweet.

Chard is not only beautiful and versatile, but it’s good for you, too. A cruciferous vegetable, it’s a rich source of fiber, potassium, and beta-carotene, and it provides vitamins C, E, and K, as well as iron and magnesium.

In the market, choose fresh, moist, and crisp chard leaves with no trace of yellow. Avoid leaves with small holes, which could indicate insect damage. Stalks should be stiff, not flabby. Store unwashed chard in perforated plastic bags and place them in the coldest part of the refrigerator. Chard has a short shelf life and will keep 3 to 4 days at the most.

If you haven’t struck up an acquaintance with chard, wait no longer! Discover for yourself the mellow flavor and juicy succulence of its stalks, the hearty texture and earthy flavor of the leaves.

CHEF'S TIP: To separate chard leaves from their stalks before cooking, fold the leaves in half lengthwise along the stalk. Grasp the folded leaf with one hand and pull the rib off with your other hand. Alternately, you can use a knife to slice off the stalks, or snip along each side of the stem with scissors.